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Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture Watch Hands-On


In 2013 Ulysse Nardin has started creating their very own in-house made chronograph actions using the quality Not-150, contributing to their roster of in-house actions and becoming basics for that Marine Chronograph Manufacture watch collection. Having a special edition model featuring an in-house made enamel, in addition to a wide range of normal models, the quality Not-150 sees a complete deployment within the Marine watch collection with this year.
Only one last year, Ulysse Nardin formally revealed its first “large volume” in-house made movement using the quality Not-118 (on the job within the Marine Chronometer Manufacture watches). The Not-118 was the topic of years of development virtually beginning when Swiss ETA introduced it had become will make its actions not available to many watch brands outdoors from the Piece of fabric Group. The Audience which is the owner of ETA, after a number of lawsuits using the Swiss government, made the decision it wished to significantly decrease way to obtain ETA actions to outdoors brands, and many of them for Piece of fabric Group brands. Their message to most of the Swiss brands that when depended upon ETA actions (even while base actions) was “help make your own actions.”
though in-house actions aren’t a new comer to them. All the top-finish Ulysse Nardin pieces already found in-house actions. With that said, the economic needs to create a choose quantity of very complicated actions is extremely different (and perhaps a lot more possible) than creating more fundamental systems in bigger amounts. Both creating and creating actions in-home is an extremely costly and tricky task.
The fundamental Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer watch never simply depended with an ETA movement, but instead used ETA actions (mostly the 2892 automatic) like a base. They’d then install their very own modules them over. Compared to a number of other independent brands, Ulysse Nardin was really in an excellent position to fully produce in-house made actions. The Not-118 automatic contained a technology Ulysse Nardin acquired referred to as DIAMonSIL. A contraction for “gemstone and plastic,” it’s a gemstone-covered plastic that has the advantages of plastic with no fragility and brittleness.
DIAMonSIL was thrilling but it doesn’t seem to be within the Not-150 movement. You will find a couple of potential causes of this, but I’m not likely to guess as I’m not sure the precise answer. With that said, the Not-150 does employ plastic by means of the hairspring included in the oscillator set up. Overall, the movement not just includes a great look but also needs to perform since many modern chronographs do. It’s a 4Hz (28,800 bph) movement having a energy reserve of 48 hrs. Functions are pretty standard it shows time, date, and it has a 12 hour chronograph. As the movement is created in-house by Ulysse Nardin, it really found them serendipitously being an acquisition.

Ulysse Nardin bought the movement from Swiss Ebel. Actually, they did not just buy the designs towards the movement, but the machine tools and five of Ebel’s production staff to assist them to produce that which was formerly referred to as Quality 137. Ebel produced the 137 within the mid the nineteen nineties and apparently it had been they who contacted Ulysse Nardin a couple of years back to purchase it. It made sense for Ulysse Nardin since it would be a solid movement also it was the best time to allow them to create a chronograph. Ulysse Nardin further reviews it required about 2 yrs of tweaks and changes including upgrades towards the movement before they might begin any kind of serious production. One of these simple changes obviously may be the inclusion of the plastic versus metal hairspring. The automated rotor looks great too.
The Marine Chronograph Manufacture watches continue to be 43mm wide, but thicker compared to Marine Chronometer models due to the movement. It will come in a steel and titanium situation in addition to 18k rose gold with whether black or silver dial (not counting the special edition pieces). In comparison to older models the dials around the standard series happen to be tweaked which is decidedly a brand new watch, not only a mature collection with a brand new actions. Ulysse Nardin brand DNA flows heavily because the dials borrow form vintage marine chronometer clocks heavily. I additionally such as the “body fat” subsidiary hands, along with the fact they too have applied luminant in it.

The model with no luminant may be the special edition model, which is on all strap types such as the rubber strap, black alligator strap, and solid 18k rose gold bracelet. All of individuals version is restricted to 150 pieces. The instances of those watches only is available in 18k gold. Having a classic look, the gorgeous dial is both enamel as well as in-house made. In the past this year Ulysse Nardin acquired the fine dial maker Donze Cadrans. The dials are grand feu enamel and incredibly pretty if you need a classical dial design with modern situation.

An extravagance watch through and thru, there’s a sporty attitude that attracts me during these watches. Ulysse Nardin watches rarely feel stuffy in my experience, and so i understand the combination of elements here. Lots of people who buy watches are this level could care less in which the movement originated from, as long as it’s pretty. Some basically need to know the movement is Swiss and less still care the brand itself managed to get. As it pertains lower into it, Ulysse Nardin didn’t start to make the Not-150 as a way to improve prices or perceived prestige. It had been done like a market necessity as their old source for actions was disappearing also it could have been an unthinkable choice to no more provide quality chronograph watches. The finish outcome is a contented story and also the better news is the fact that more in-house made actions are not far off.