Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar Ref. 1533-150 (steel) and 1532-150 (18k red gold) watches at Baselworld 2016.
This nautical-themed beauty aims for simplicity and is a welcome progression from Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Manufacture, established in 2012, that was followed with the in-house made caliber UN-150 automatic chronograph movement in the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Manufacture.
While the white “egg shell” dial option is the obvious conservative’s choice, the real winner here in the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar dial is the navy blue with white roman numerals, in my opinion. I am glad they chose roman numerals as I much prefer the classic and Hellenic vibe they give off, particularly when paired with a more formal piece. The red accentuated month indicator and “1846” really add a touch of variation and color and prevent the face from disappearing under a near-monochromatic presentation.
The recessed pushers offer a nice balance with the fluted crown and Ulysse Nardin aims for simplicity with this piece. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar features an annual calendar (displays the month as well as the date) as part of the manufacture-made caliber UN-153 automatic movement that is a cross between a perpetual and a simple model. Whereas simple calendars necessitate adjusting five times per year, this complication marries the functionalities by only needing to be adjusted once per year. The months can be quickly set with a unique backward/forward adjustment for added ease. It only recognizes months with 30 or 31 days so February is the victim here. Still, this isn’t too much to ask of the wearer even though you will miss out on that exciting leap year moment that only perpetual calendar owners get by seeing the 29th in the date window every four years in February. Every other month is abbreviated on the subdial while months in between are read with elongated indices.
The UN-153 advances the attributes set forth by the UN-118 where less is more in the display of information. The calendar is constructed from only about a dozen elements, and the indicator itself adds to an existing subdial rather than creating too many new elements on the dial. The company acknowledges that many annual calendars are comprised of almost thirty parts so Ulysse Nardin makes a point of showcasing their movement through a sapphire crystal on the case back. It is designed completely in-house and is a testament to the brand’s effort to offer a high-quality movement with extreme precision. Even the silicon balance-spring is manufactured in-house. This level of commitment is part of what makes independent brands so special and it’s refreshing to see this level of detail in the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar. The self-winding UN-153 beats away at a modern 4Hz (28,800 bph) and allows the owner a 52-hour power reserve.
Overall, if you like a little boat-lifestyle in your otherwise conservative sport watches and appreciate the idea of changing your calendar date only once a year, then give these a good look. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar comes on a smooth, dark navy alligator leather strap and features a folding buckle to complete the package (among with the other strap/bracelet options mentioned above.