After attending the 2015 edition of the Watches & Wonders trade show in Hong Kong, I wrote that this Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Spirit Date Automatic reference 112144 or 113706 watch best summed up the theme of the event in the above linked-to recap article.
Relatively reasonably priced in 18k gold and with diamonds, this men’s dress watch well epitomizes a particular timepiece genre which I think is both emerging, and also not particularly well understood in the West. Of course, in many places in the world, there is pushback against men’s watches with diamonds for a variety of reasons. Most of these reasons surround the concept of “that isn’t masculine.” Can diamonds on a men’s watch indeed be masculine? And in what forms or styles are they the most appropriate?
Related to that is the notion that diamonds needlessly add expense. Particularly these days, high-end watches supplemented with diamonds offer brands enough rationale to dramatically increase prices of a particular timepiece (which is often already very expensive, typically being in gold or another precious metal) to levels which are above and beyond the cost of the diamond stones, the gem-setting, and a reasonable margin. Thus, many people associate diamonds with unfettered price inflation tactics meant for watches intended to be on the wrist of those who “don’t care about money.”
Still, our diverse world of luxury watches has in it many men’s watches with diamonds. Many, many men’s watches with diamonds, actually! I would argue that the majority of them are destined for purchase in either Asia or the Middle East. These just happen to be the regions around the world were men buy watches with diamonds on them.
It isn’t that the Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Spirit Date Automatic 112144, 113706 watch is cheap – because it isn’t. Rather, it is an admirably fair price given the 18k red gold case and diamond decoration on the bezel and dial – especially coming from a “name brand.” I’ve felt for a while that various Montblanc Star and Meisterstuck collection watches have been very beautiful dress pieces, and here, the collection goes even more lavishly formal without entering into “insane price” categories.
Of course, Montblanc offers the Meisterstuck Heritage Spirit Date Automatic watch in 18k red gold without the diamonds (as well as in steel, or two-tone steel and gold on a bracelet), but my focus here will be on the “top tier” model with diamonds. Montblanc has been really pushing hard with “high value” watches over the last few years, which has interestingly meant not only entry-level steel watches, but also gold and diamond-decorated models as well. I think it is a testament to the brand that they are trying to offer something at a more entry-level price across the board.
When it comes to a dress watch meant for elegant, formal attire, I don’t need anything beyond a decently slim automatic movement that is reliable. These aren’t the types of watches people wear on a daily basis (unless they wear a tuxedo on a daily basis), so I would gladly give up something unique inside the watch for something that is tested and dependable.
Montblanc has played with a number of dial styles over the years when it comes to their more formal fare. I’ve seen more traditional dials and some that are quite modern. I would say that the Meisterstuck Heritage Spirit Date Automatic is somewhere in the middle with its obvious nods to both the past and present. Elements of the dial design look historic, some look clean and modern, and others look a bit Art Deco-insired. In any event, the dial is clean and legible with properly sized hands and attractive, yet not over-done decorative embellishments.