The bracelet also includes a few kinds of expansion. First there is the easy to overlook fold-out extension that’s a bit more traditional but contained in the design. Then there is the multi-setting expansion in the deployant clasp, which is spring-loaded. The notion is that you’re able to put the bracelet at a few “secured” places (meaning that the spring system is secured), or you may put the deployant into “spring” style. This is the preferred setting for me since it allows the watch bracelet to expand a little, as well as be pulled pretty far if you are wearing it on a wet suit. This is among the very best micro-adjust systems out there, and though the spring system in general isn’t unique to Tudor, they do it better than anyone else now that I know of.The darker gray, all brushed colors of this titanium case and bracelet make for a very handsome, masculine look for the Pelagos. The matte tones of this dial mixed with the look of the case farther create the Pelagos feel equally serious and modern. The Pelagos has some personality outside of its tool-like character, but not too much as to feel silly or artistic. The Pelagos is all about a directed focus on functionality, and for this reason, tool watch fans will enjoy it the most.With all this technology and attention to detail, so I still don’t understand why the Swiss are fearful of using treated titanium in order to avoid scratches. The weakness of titanium is that even though it being lighter and stronger than steel, it is more susceptible to scratches. It follows that your sexy new titanium watch will inevitably reveal signs of wear maybe somewhat sooner than you’d like. Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen possess “Super Titanium,” that treats the foundation natural titanium with a few totally transparent (or non transparent in some cases) coatings, which dramatically increases scratch resistance.

The Tudor Black Bay and Mk II Kingston are visually, and conceptually, similar. They shamelessly take inspiration from the 1950s Rolex (and Tudor) Submariner. Despite the superficial similarity, they are actually two fundamentally different watches.

Mk II Kingston (left) and Tudor Black Bay

Between the two, the Kingston, made by military watch homage specialist Mk II, is a more faithful remake. With its 39.2 mm diameter and rivet bracelet, it looks and feels like a vintage watch. The Kingston was obviously conceived with the intention of recreating the look and feel of a 1950s Submariner. On the other hand, the Tudor was clearly designed as a modern watch, rather than a literal remake, but with a design that incorporates elements of vintage Tudor dive watches. It is more substantial all round, and larger too, at 41 mm in diameter.

Mk II Kingston rivet bracelet (left) vs Tudor Black Bay

The case, bracelet and clasp are all thicker and heavier than the Kingston. That being said the Kingston and Black Bay have the same overall right, because the Kingston has a domed crystal and case back.

The Tudor Black Bay (above) is much thicker than the Kingston (below)

More significantly, the Black Bay is a better made watch – it displays a higher level of fit and finish. Take for instance the finish on the lugs, the Tudor case has a sharper, tidier edge. Also, the Tudor crown screws down much more smoothly and reassuringly than on the Mk II.

Tudor Black Bay

Mk II Kingston

The Tudor has finer details as well. Compare the details on the bezels, as well as the crowns.

Tudor Black Bay

Mk II Kingston

But in the Kingston’s favour, it does cost much, much less than the Tudor. At about a quarter of the Black Bay’s price, the Kingston is a solid watch for the money. The Kingston, however, is now sold out though Mk II has a replacement, the Nassau, on hand. Mk II’s decision to introduce the Nassau is disappointing, since the Kingston was meant to be a limited edition, albeit an extremely affordable watch. But given the low cost of the Kingston that is not a big deal. And then there is the wait, I waited over two years for my Kingston, and the Nassau seems to be delayed too (I’ve given up keeping track). Although the Tudor costs quite a lot more, it is a substantially better watch. Once the initial euphoria and resulting waiting lists disappear, the Black Bay is great watch for the money. For high resolution macro photographs of the Black Bay, look no further. – SJX