In 2009, Patek Philippe introduced the Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071 a chronograph intended exclusively for women that marked the debut of a classic manufacture-made chronograph movement (column wheel, horizontal clutch, manual winding) that had been developed entirely in-house.
Produced until 2016, this complicated timepiece – highly coveted by discerning women – is today endowed with a totally new face. The cushionshaped case has been replaced with an elegant, round rose-gold case with a diameter of 38 mm featuring a bezel set with 72 flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds (~0.78 ct). Its timelessly sleek design is emphasized by refined vintage-look details such as the fluted and delicately curved strap lugs, the round chronograph pushers with manually guilloched faces, and the gently cambered sapphire-crystal “box” glass.
Ladies’ Chronograph Ref. 7150/250R-001 © Patek Philippe
The silvery opaline dial also combines a contemporary style with classic aesthetics, showcasing sculpted Breguet hour and minute hands in rose gold, a black Pfinodal nickel-plated chronograph hand, and a display layout that makes it eminently legible. The pulsimeter scale of the new Ref. 7150/250R-001 respectfully pays tribute to the tradition of classic chronographs that can measure the cadence of an active lifestyle or the slightly increased heart rate of its proud owner.
This only chronograph in Patek Philippe’s watch collection for ladies accommodates the manually wound caliber CH 29-535 PS movement – with column wheel, Gyromax® balance, Breguet balance spring – with an instantaneous 30-minute counter, crowning its classic architecture with six patented innovations. Beating at the frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz), it has a 65-hour power reserve.Its lavish finissage can be admired through the box-type sapphire-crystal case back that is slightly chamfered to echo the profile of the rear bezel.
The original 5960, released in 2006 was the very first in-house chronograph produced by Patek so that it’s not surprising that the manufacturer would need to be certain that they get these steel iterations just right in it pleases collectors, enthusiasts, and of course, aspirational watch fans. The opaline/silver dial with black and red touches was a success but I do not think I am alone in picking the newer black dial watch. Sporty, modern, and carrying a definitely impressive movement, Patek has created a lust worthy piece here for those of us who respect tradition without being burdened with the weight of dusty and unchanging style.The 40.5mm wide and 13.5mm thick polished stainless steel case houses the deep ebony black opaline dial that is fortunately legible in addition to attractive. The applied white gold hour markers, red minutes and chronograph hands, and white facets of the monocounter in 6 o’clock maintain the dial out of being overpowering considering how much is happening with the Patek Philippe 5960/1A. Things are thrown around from the silver plated model, together with the date/day/month apertures, hour markers, and outer ring of the monopusher contrasting against the black dial and looking a lot more harmonious. Personally, I felt that the black framing of the date/day/month apertures about the preceding model looked too crude. I believe the best way I could put it is that they almost felt like black eyes on the face of the dial, though that might sound a little harsher than I intend. These apertures seem more like a set of glasses that look like a natural fit and attractively frame the face. The power reserve indicator in 12 o’clock still bothers me and just looks awkward, even though the functional purpose of the complication is tough to deny. And needless to say, the white outer ring of the monocounter suggests the chronograph hours, with the inner rings suggesting the chronograph minutes.
Calibre CH 29-535 PS à remontage manuel © Patek Philippe
The new Ref. 7150/250R-001 is worn on a shiny hand-stitched mink gray alligator leather strap, with large square scales, secured with a rose-gold prong buckle adorned with 27 diamonds.
Rose-gold prong buckle adorned with 27 diamonds. © Patek Philippe